I’m not a big
fan of winter. The colder it gets, the more I want to not leave the house. One
thing I look forward to however, is having something strong, malty, and
delicious. Those strong, malty beers often take the form of barleywines, Baltic
porters, or Russian imperial stouts. Sometimes though, the harder to define
winter ale will find its way into my glass. Despite its history, winter ale can
be hard to define because it’s not really a beer style like an IPA or a
pilsner.
Winter ales have a history dating
back to the 1600s, a time when people didn’t enjoy the comforts of central
heating. In addition to a roaring fire, a winter ale was designed to help take
the edge off of winter’s chill. Up until the 19th century, many of
these beers were served warm and seasoned with ginger, nutmeg, and other
spices. The tradition of serving these beers warmed faded away when more highly
hopped beers entered the market. Apparently, those hop flavors don’t take
kindly to being served warm.
Today, winter ales are maltier beers
with alcohol content falling somewhere between 6 and 8% abv. While everyone has
their own unique take on the style, most have a flavor profile designed to
evoke the yuletide spirit. Fuller’s Old Winter Ale is crystal clear and deep
copper colored, with reddish highlights. Thin streams of CO2 support a packed,
cream colored head with decent retention.
My first
impression of this beer’s aroma is that it’s very malt forward with a notable
brown sugar sweetness. It’s a much richer aroma than I was expecting. Malty
sweetness moves quickly into a center I find leather, earth, and a sort of rum
and raisins quality, only without the raisins. Overall, Old Winter Ale’s aroma
reminds me of something that might have spent time in a barrel, though I can
find no evidence of this actually being the case. Somehow, it the malt,
sweetness, and rum notes all combine to remind me of Christmas without smelling
of the usual Christmas spices or aromas.
Taking a sip,
Fuller’s Old Winter Ale is smooth, with very restrained carbonation. It’s malty
up front leading into a center that is offers flavors of both nuts and leather.
In that sense it reminds me of an English brown ale. Brown sugar sweetness is
there, but more subdued, taking a supporting role next to the other flavors.
All of this leads to a crisp bitterness that is very English in nature. Which
is to say, earthiness and peppercorns rather than citrus and pine. Definitely
the right choice for a traditional English beer.
Overall, I’m
giving Fuller’s Old Winter Ale an 8 out of 10. The flavor and aroma on this
beer are very much what you’d expect in a winter ale. Specifically, it smells
and tastes like Christmas. But at the same time, it smells and tastes like a
well crafted English ale. That balance makes this a very good beer to have
during the Christmas season or at any time during the winter season.
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