I don’t know
why, but I’m always pleasantly surprised to find a new craft beer from
somewhere in Europe. Somehow, craft beer feels like it should be the exclusive
purview of Canada and the U.S. That doesn’t seem to be the case these days.
With new breweries showing up in Scotland, Denmark, and nations across the
continent, perhaps Brouwerij Kees shouldn’t be a surprise. Having tried beer
from some of Europe’s other craft breweries I was excited to try this Baltic
porter from the Netherlands.
Brouwerij Kees opened its doors in
the town of Middelburg in 2015. Soon after, Ratebeer voted it one of the
world’s best craft breweries. Today, Kees produces almost a dozen styles of
beer, some traditional old world beers, and others inspired by north American
styles. As I researched this review, I was surprised to see how soon after
opening this brewery expanded sales of its products as far away as Canada and
the U.S. Export Porter 1750 pours into my glass thick, viscous, and as black as
anything I’ve ever seen. The beer supports a rocky, coffee and cream colored
head with good retention.
The nose is an
enticing combination of chocolate mousse, roasted oats, and an alcoholic
richness that reminds me of a really nice bourbon. Hints of licorice in the
center add enjoyable depth to the beer’s aroma. This is where I find aromas of
ripe dark fruits, somewhere in between cherries and figs. The whole profile
feels like it’s held together by just the barest hints of tobacco, holding the
aroma together like a web.
On the tongue,
Export Porter 1750 is rich, lush, and nothing short of seductive. Alcoholic
flavors of bourbon lead the charge, followed up by flavors of dark, ripe fruit.
Flavors of roasted grain come in on the center, just enough to give the flavor
structure and support. There seems to be a cereal flavor in here that reminds
me of oatmeal. It gives the moutheel a smoothness that reminds me of an oatmeal
stout. The finish is only slightly bitter, cleansing my palate for the next
eagerly awaited sip.
I’m giving
Export Porter 1750 an 8.25 out of 10. It’s rich and lush, complex, and at the
same time accessible in its drinkability. Flavors of alcohol are present and
noticeable, but not in a harsh, rocket fuel fashion like in cheaper, more
“ghetto” style strong beers. If anything, the alcohol content is as smooth and
luxurious as the rest of the beer. This is a perfect beer to drink on a cool
winter night in front of an open fire.
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