Ommegang Saisonztraminer

 

On a recent trip to my local beer store, I saw single bottles of Saisonztraminer from Ommegang sitting on the shelf. Having tried their Saison Rose, my curiosity was piqued and I had to give this one a try as well. It's part of the same co-fermentation project where Ommegang explores the interaction of grape and grain. The goal being to take an established style of beer, combine it with a classic wine making grape and come up with something new and wonderful. 

The fermentation of this beer and wine grape is then aged in oak wine barrels. As with the saison rose, this beer starts with a saison which is then mixed with the juice of Germany's famous gerwurtzaminer grape. The intended result is a traditional saison blended with a vinous quality and given the character of aging in oak. Ommegang Saisonztraminer is slightly hazy, and golden in color, like ripe wheat. The ad is fluffy, bone white, and lasting.

Taking a sniff, the first word that comes to mind is "delicate." At first, I find a sort of woody quality, reminding me of the dusty attic of some old Victorian home. Then come the delicate, yet funky aromas you'd expect of a Belgian beer. There are aromas of peppercorn and spice, supported by fresh baked bread and a general yeastiness. All of this mixes expertly with the softness of rose petals and the juiciness of grapes before fading into a peppery hop finish.

My first sip is of something smooth, crisp, and gently dry in the finish. Flavors of ripe grape lead the charge, giving Saisonztraminer's flavor an up front juiciness. This juiciness helps take the edge off the beer's peppery, spicy, funkiness without otherwise interfering with its presence. All of this moves into a center where I get hints of citrus, before moving into the peppery, earthy bitterness of European hops combined with a flinty dryness.

I think Ommegang Saisonztraminer deserves an 8.5 out of 10. It's delicate and juicy, while also being spicy and funky and nature. The fresh baked bread helps round things out well before leading into a dry, and gently bitter finish. And all of this combines with flavors of grape and barrel aging to make a beer that is flavorful, complex, and beautifully refined in nature.