Once upon a
time, your choices were fairly predictable if you wanted to buy a barrel aged
beer. Back in the day, you could only find porter, stout, and barleywine with
the words “barrel aged” on the label, and they were routinely aged in bourbon
or some other kind of whiskey barrel. Today though, the innovative nature of
craft brewing has thrown the doors of barrel aging wide open. For one thing, a
wider variety of beer is being aged in barrels these days.
You can find saisons, IPAs, sour
ales, and so many other styles of beer being aged in barrels before being
bottled. What’s more, you can find more than just whiskey barrels being used to
age those beers. Barrels that once held wine, port, tequila, and other spirits
are pulling double duty in breweries across the industry. As it happens, I
decided to pick a barrel aged barleywine recently, having tried and liked
another beer from Brouwerij Kees. Barrel Project 19.10 is the darkest
barleywine I think I’ve ever seen. It’s basically jet black with a coffee and
cream colored head.
The aroma
really has a lot going on. The first thing I smell is the bourbon barrel the
beer was aged in. Here, I’m getting huge notes of vanilla, the depth of wood,
and hints of the bourbon itself. Vanilla and brown sugar give the aroma a hint
of sweetness coupled with a gentle aroma or ripe fruit. Malt comes through in
the finish with aromas reminding me of dark fruits like dates before fading
into the background.
Taking a sip
reveals me a barleywine with a very, very full body. Flavors are very malty up
front, coupled with a subtle and not unpleasant alcoholic flavor. After all,
the beer does clock in just north of 11% abv. Flavors of malt and alcohol lead
into a notable flavor of rum and raisins. Rum and raisin lead into flavors of
wood and subtle spiciness on the back of the tongue. The whole thing is very
full in flavor and mouthfeel making a beer that enjoys being sipped rather than
gulped at hungrily.
Barrel Project
19.10 deserves an 8.25 out of 10. It’s full, smooth, and flavorful. It deftly
walks the line between being big and bold versus being so big and bold that you
can barely drink it. Pour a glass, light a fire in the fireplace (if you have
one) and let this beer take the chill off on a cold winter night.
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