Chinook Saison

 

          For the second time in a matter of weeks, I’ve stumbled

across a brewery that was recently purchased by a multinational corporation. In this case, Calgary’s Banded Peak Brewing was purchased by Labatt’s, which itself is owned by Anheuser-Busch inbev. As with my previous review, this raises the question of what will happen to the brewery now that it’s owned by a major corporation. You see, many craft beer lovers won’t support a brewery that’s been taken over by a large, corporate entity like Labatt’s or Heineken.

Most craft beer lovers would rather give their support to independent, locally owned breweries. That’s a position I try and take when I do most of my shopping. When it comes to craft beer though, I tend to make my purchase based on the quality of the product rather than who owns the brewery. I guess what it comes down to for me is simply this: I would rather buy a corporate craft beer as long as it’s good, as opposed to buying a mediocre beer because I’m more worried about supporting local.

So what does that mean for me and Banded Peak? Well, as long as they make good beer, I’ll probably keep buying it. Chinook Saison is slightly hazy and pale amber in color. Head is packed, off white, and lasting.

          Chinook’s aroma is funky up front, with hints of what smells like banana. As such, the aroma reminds me initially of a funky hefeweizen. This couples with a bready, grainy aroma you’d find in many beers with lighter malt profiles. Graininess leads into a center that is a little citrusy. Citrus aromas remind me more of lemon peel than lemon juice and makes the aroma better in going that route. Subtle earthiness leads to a light, peppery hoppiness in the finish.

          Taking a sip, Chinook Saison is smoother than I expected for a beer of this style. Up front, the flavors are a combination of lemon rind and pear, giving the flavor a pleasant fruitiness. Belgian funkiness takes a back seat to the beer’s fruit flavors, coming in just past the beer’s rounded center. There also seems to be a hint of earthiness, lending the flavor a decent, if subtle through note. All of this leads to a pleasant, peppery finish in the form of European hops.

          I’m giving Chinook Saison a 7.5 out of 10. The flavors are delicate, and nicely balanced. The mouthfeel is smooth, rounded, and boasts the crispness one would expect from a Saison. I particularly enjoy the beer’s fruit notes which somehow seem appropriate in taking the form of lemon peel and pear. And yet, you still have that Belgian spiciness lending support and giving you the overall character you’d expect for a Saison.